What is Oud? Understanding Agarwood & Its Mystical Appeal

Oud, also known as agarwood, is one of the rarest and most treasured substances in the world of fragrance. It forms deep inside Aquilaria trees when they become infected with a specific type of mould. In response, the tree produces a dark, aromatic resin that is rich, smoky, and full of complexity.

For centuries, this resin has been burned in temples, used in royal courts, and blended into luxurious perfumes. Today, oud continues to capture the imagination of fragrance lovers around the world, thanks to its deep woody character and its ability to add richness to any scent.

Often referred to as “liquid gold,” oud is not just a fragrance ingredient. It holds deep cultural, spirituala, and even medicinal value in many regions, from Southeast Asia to the Middle East.

Intrigued by the mystique of oud? Explore Odyssey Aoud. 

Let's delve deeper and uncover the captivating story behind this aromatic treasure.

Historical & Cultural Uses of Oud: From Ancient Rituals to Modern Fragrances

Oud, or agarwood, boasts a storied past spanning thousands of years, across diverse cultures from the deserts of Arabia to the forests of East Asia. Historically prized for its captivating aroma, oud quickly evolved from simple incense into a symbol of luxury, spirituality, and refinement.

When Was Agarwood First Discovered?

The earliest known references to agarwood date back more than 3,000 years, appearing in ancient Sanskrit scriptures, notably within the Vedas. Its fragrance was originally cherished in India and gradually spread through ancient trade routes into China, Japan, and the Middle East.

Oud was once reserved for kings and spiritual leaders, but today it is a luxury that more people can enjoy through fragrance. Its emotional depth and timeless elegance still resonate just as strongly.

Oud Production Process (Natural & Synthetic)

How Natural Oud is Produced:

Oud's precious resin is produced by the Aquilaria tree as a natural response to fungal infection or damage. Here's the detailed journey from tree to fragrance:

1. Infection Initiation:
   The Aquilaria tree is naturally or artificially wounded, allowing fungi to infect it.

2. Resin Formation:
   The tree reacts defensively, secreting a dense, fragrant resin to protect and heal the wound.

3. Harvesting the Oud Resin:
   After several years (usually 8-12 years), the dark resin-saturated heartwood is harvested manually by skilled workers.

4. Extraction & Distillation:
   The harvested wood undergoes steam distillation or other extraction techniques, producing pure oud oil—highly concentrated and exceptionally aromatic.

Why Synthetic Oud?

Synthetic oud is widely used in modern perfumery. While it does not have the same raw complexity as natural oud, it offers a similar aroma and makes oud-based scents more affordable and sustainable.

Types and Variations of Oud: Exploring Scents 

Why is Oud So Expensive? Understanding the Luxury Behind Agarwood

Oud is among the most valuable fragrance ingredients globally, often referred to as "liquid gold" due to its rarity and high cost. But why exactly is oud so costly?

Here’s a concise breakdown of the primary factors:

1. Rarity & Limited Availability

Oud resin only forms in a small percentage of Aquilaria trees (approximately 2-7%) after infection, making genuine oud extremely rare. Furthermore, these trees are now endangered due to overharvesting, significantly limiting supply.

2. Labour-intensive Harvesting and Extraction

The harvesting and distillation of oud are highly specialized and labour-intensive processes:

• Trees require years (often a decade) to produce enough resin.

• Skilled laborers must carefully harvest and select resin-rich heartwood.

• Traditional steam distillation methods further increase production time and cost.

3. Market Demand & Economic Factors

Oud’s cultural prestige, particularly in Middle Eastern markets, creates consistently high global demand, which directly influences its price. Additionally, increasing restrictions on natural oud harvesting and export further elevate costs.

This comparison underscores oud’s status as a genuine luxury—often matching or even exceeding the price of gold.

The Role of Oud in Modern Fragrance

Perfumers love oud for its unmatched richness and lasting power. Whether in pure oil or as part of a complex blend, oud leaves a strong impression.

How Oud Is Used Today

• Pure Perfume Oils (Attars): A single drop of real oud oil can last all day.
  

• Blended Fragrances: Oud adds depth to floral, spicy, or citrus notes.
  

• Synthetic Formulations: More consistent and suitable for mass-market scents.
  

Discover long-lasting oud blends like Lamasat Oud. 

Environmental Impact & Conservation: Safeguarding Oud’s Future

The environmental challenges around oud production are becoming increasingly urgent.

The Fragility of Aquilaria Trees

• Overharvesting threatens the species, with several listed as endangered by CITES and IUCN.

Environmental Concerns

• Deforestation: Loss of biodiversity from unsustainable practices.

• Illegal Trade: Unregulated harvesting driven by high demand.

• Slow Growth Cycle: Limited ability for natural replenishment.

Global Conservation Efforts

• Managed plantations for sustainable oud production.

• Advanced inoculation techniques to enhance resin yield sustainably.

• Enforcement of strict trade regulations by global conservation bodies.

Further Reading:

• Sustainable Agarwood Cultivation (Traffic.org)

• Agarwood Sustainable Management Report (FAO)

Key Takeaways

• Oud is prized for rarity, complex scent, and cultural prestige.

• Natural oud is costly; synthetic oud provides an affordable alternative.

• Oud fragrances are luxurious, versatile, and long-lasting.

Explore Our Oud Fragrance Collection →